Whole Dried (Psycotria Whole Whole Viridis) Dried
Ayahuasca Red Vine (Banisteriopsis Caapi) Yage Yage
Ayahuasca RED Vine (Banisteriopsis caapi)
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into the benzene during separation pour everything back into the separator, let it
stand and repeat the separation more carefully. It is better to leave some
benzene layer in the water and emulsion than to get emulsion and water into the
benzene. Nothing will be wasted. All of the benzene which contains the
mescaline will eventually be salvaged. Sometimes the layers will fail to separate
properly. If this is the case immerse the funnel or jug in a deep pot of hot water
for two hours. This will break up the emulsion and bring about the separation.
Prepare a solution of 2 parts sulfuric acid and one part water. (never add water to
the acid or it will splatter; add the acid a little at a time to the water by pouring it
down the inside of the graduate or measuring cup containing the water.) Add 25
drops of the acid solution one drop at a time to the benzene extracts. Stopper the
jug and shake well for one minute. Then let stand for five minutes. White streaks
of mescaline sulfates should begin to appear in the benzene. If these do not
appear, shake the jug more vigorously for two to three minutes and let it settle for
five more minutes. I have found that when extracting mescaline from San Pedro
it is sometimes necessary to shake the mixture more thoroughly and for a longer
time to get the mescaline streaks to form. This is probably because of the lower
mescaline content in the plant. This would also apply to any peyote that does not
have a high mescaline content. After the streaks appear add 25 more drops of
the acid solution in the same manner, shake as before and let settle for ten
minutes. More streaks will appear. Add 15 drops of acid, shake and wait 15
minutes for streaks to form. Add 10 drops, shake and wait about 30 minutes.
Test the solution with wide range pH paper. It should show that the solution is
between pH 7.5 and 8. Allow the mescaline sulfate crystals to completely
precipitate. Siphon off as much of the benzene as possible without disturbing the
crystals on the bottom of the jug.
The next steps are to salvage any mescaline still in the water and emulsion layer.
Combine the benzene siphonings with the water/emulsion layer, shake these well
together for 5 minutes and let settle for two hours as before. Carefully remove the
benzene layer, treat it again with acid, precipitate the crystals and siphon off the
benzene as in the previous steps. Recombine the siphoned benzene with the
watery layer and repeat this again and again until no more crystals precipitate.
Siphon off as much benzene as possible without drawing crystals through the
The next step involves removing the remaining benzene from the crystals. There
are two methods to choose from. The first is the quickest, but requires ether,
which is dangerous and often difficult to procure. Shake up the crystals with the
remaining benzene and pour it into a funnel with filter paper. After the benzene
has passed through the filter rinse yage
ayahuasca Whole Dried (Psycotria Whole Whole Viridis) Dried
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ayahuasca yage Whole Dried (Psycotria Whole Whole Viridis) Dried Ayahuasca Preparation
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put into a 500 ml flask along with a solution made up of 150 ml ethyl
alcohol, 150 ml water, and 100 grams KOH. Next, 15 ml of hydrazine
hydrate is added. This hydrazine should be the monohydrate, which is
64% hydrazine. If a weaker variety has been scrounged up, this can be
made to work by adding more, and using less water.
Now the flask should be fitted with a condenser, and flushed with
nitrogen. Then heat the flask in an oil bath to gentle boiling for 4
hours. A slow stream of nitrogen to the flask during the reflux averts
the danger from hydrazine.
The flask is next cooled, and the contents poured into a sep funnel of
at least 1000 ml capacity. The batch is then extracted with 600 ml
ether, followed by 600 ml of an 85-15% mix of ether and alcohol.
Finally, one more extraction with 600 ml of 85-15% ether-alcohol is
All of the desired product should now be extracted into the
solvent, and out of the water. This fact should be checked using a
black light to look for the characteristic blue fluorescence.
The combined solvent extracts should now be lowered to a pH of
about 2 using HC1. At this point, a precipitate should form, and it
should be filtered out. The precipitate should be washed free of
entrained product with 4-1 ether-alcohol, and the washing added to
the rest of the filtered solvent.
Now 2750 ml of water should be added to the solvent, and the
mixture placed in a gallon and a half glass jug or 5000 ml beaker. To
this should be added 3 portions of cation exchange resin in H* cycle.
Cation exchange resin is a common item of commerce used in
deionized water systems. Check the yellow pages under "water" and
see which of the local Culligan men offer deionized water systems.
The deionizers come in two-tank systems with one tank packed with
cation exchange resin to remove calcium, magnesium and sodium
from the water. The other tank has an anion exchange resin to remove
chlorides, sulfates, and so on. It is no great task to buy cation
exchange resin from these outlets. The resin consists of tiny plastic
beads coated with the exchanger. In the case of the cation exchangers,
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this is generally a sulfonate. "In H* cycle" means that the resin is
charged up and ready to go. This is generally done by soaking the
resin in 20% sulfuric acid in water for a while, then rinsing with
distilled water. Check the directions on the container of resin. Steer
clear of mixed resins that contain both anion and cation exchangers. If
the Culligan man is too stupid to know the difference, or doesn't
know what he has, keep looking until you find one who knows his
The treatment with three portions of cation exchange resin in H*
cycle should be done as follows: Each portion of resin should weigh
about 15 grams. The first portion is added, and then the mixture
should be stirred strongly or shaken for about 10 minutes. The product
will come out of the liquid, and stick
Ayahuasca RED Vine (Banisteriopsis caapi) Whole Dried (Psycotria Whole Whole Viridis) Dried
Ayahuasca BLACK (Negra) Vine(Banisteriopsis caapi)VERY POWERFUL Normally ONLY used by Shaman!!
@Friday, June 22, 2018 3:51:12 AM